“Gini vinis to locu nostros!” that means “Welcome to our land, let’s have a great time!” was the greeting we received in the Vlach dialect from Mr. Giorgos Pappas, Deputy Mayor for Tourism and Health of North Tzoumerka, setting the tone for our journey through breathtaking Tzoumerka.
“Tzoumerkohoria are around 47 villages, built between the 14th and 15th centuries, stretching from northern Arta to southern Ioannina. These villages are nestled among fir forests, plane trees, and chestnuts—untouched nature, traditional settlements, stone-built houses, churches, caves, and waterfalls make up a mosaic that everyone should visit at least once,” Mr. Pappas shared, adding:
“Next to Tzoumerkohoria are the Katsanochoria, made up of 11 villages, the most famous being Kaletzi, Elliniko, and Plaisia. Each one hides its own little paradise, completing a puzzle defined by unspoiled natural beauty, honest people, and unpretentious hospitality.”
The history of this captivating area stretches deep into time, inviting visitors to explore every facet.
Traditional Cuisine at Tzoumerka Tavern in Ktistades
In a stone-paved square with views of lush hillsides, the “Tzoumerka” tavern in Ktistades, near Pramanta, serves hearty local dishes, meats, classic pies, and fresh salads. The shade of a grand plane tree outside creates the perfect spot to enjoy a meal with the sounds of nature all around.
Tour of Anemotrypa Cave—the Whitest Cave in Greece
Only 3 km from Pramanta, hidden on a mountain slope at 900 meters elevation, lies Anemotrypa Cave—a natural masterpiece nearly 15 million years old and the only Greek cave with a river running its full length.
The cave has three levels, with air temperature a steady 19°C and water at 10°C.
Beautifully shaped, colorful stalagmites and three lakes—shades of grey, bronze, and white—form a dreamlike setting.
Coffee at the Luxury Horizons Hotel in Tsopela, Pramanta
Surrounded by cedar and fir forests at 1,000 meters, Horizons Hotel sits at the foot of Mt. Strongoula, just 1.5 km from Pramanta village.
The hotel’s large glass windows in the café and restaurant open onto sweeping views—sometimes lush green, other times snow-white—of the Tzoumerka peaks. Guests can relax with coffee or drinks in the atmospheric lounge at any hour, enjoy a buffet of homemade treats, and browse the hotel’s book collection.
Syrrako: Greece’s Largest Stone Village
At 1,150 meters on a slope of Mt. Lakmos stands Syrrako, overlooking the Hroutsia river gorge and facing the Tzoumerka peaks. This village retains its classic Epirus stone architecture: stone houses with schist roofs.
In 1975 it was classified by the Ministry of Culture as a settlement of natural beauty, and later as a protected traditional village. The main building materials are hewn stone for walls and slate for roofs—many houses are large and elegant, a testament to Syrrako’s prosperity in the past.
Cars are forbidden inside the village, preserving its original character. Vehicles stop at the entrance, where a stone bridge links to the road; there is also a peripheral road into the village that does not disturb its charm.
Visiting the Poet Kostas Krystallis Museum in Syrrako
In the heart of Syrrako is the childhood home of Kostas Krystallis (1868–1894), poet and writer, now a folk museum and library.
Along with his personal items, the museum displays artifacts such as traditional costumes, photos, and tools for making cheese and textiles.
Guide Mr. Kostas, staff in hand and with a love for his homeland, brings history to life. In the courtyard stands a bust of the poet.
Dining at “O Stavraetos” Tavern
The “O Stavraetos” tavern is Syrrako’s first tourist business, opened by Vasilis Vaitsis in 1976 and still run by his family.
Local livestock and cheese-making are central to Syrrako’s cuisine; every table offers a variety of cheeses—fried graviera, kefalotyri, galotyri, baked feta—and traditional pies passed down through generations.
Stay at “Old School” in Syrrako
Syrrako’s old school, standing for more than a century and now designated a modern monument, has been lovingly restored as a boutique hotel by Matina Loli and Vaggelis Giotopoulos (vice president, Ioannina Hoteliers Union).
“Construction began in 1925, finished by 1929. It’s the only classified building in the region with a zinc roof, and made entirely from 80-cm thick stone. It served up to 400 students before closing in 1980. From 1980 to 2000 it was empty, then briefly a hostel, but it truly came back to life just recently.”
Today, the hotel offers stylish rooms in soothing colors—perfect for unwinding after exploring.
Enjoy a traditional Epirus breakfast in the hotel’s garden: Syrrako yogurt, local “Galazoula” honey, fresh tea, homemade jams, pies, and cakes crafted by Matina.
Rafting in the Arachthos Gorge with Via Natura
Myth says in ancient times three siblings—serious Arachthos, beautiful Salabria (modern Pineios), and wild Aspros (modern Acheloos)—roamed Pindos mountains, their story woven into the area’s rivers. When Aspros realized his beloved sister was missing, he rushed through mountains and gorges, while Arachthos wandered grieving across Epirus. Eventually, Arachthos reached the Ambracian Gulf, where, consumed by loss, he threw himself into the Ionian Sea.
Tzoumerka is ideal for outdoor pursuits year-round: rafting, hiking, climbing, cycling, archery, and more. The expert Via Natura team provides all the gear—wetsuits, helmets, shoes, lifejackets—and guides every step of the way for a safe, unforgettable adventure suitable for all ages.
Plaka Bridge
The rafting route from Politsa to Plaka Bridge (about 12 km, difficulty level 3, duration 2 hours) is the most scenic navigable stretch of the Arachthos and perhaps the most striking in Greece.
Plaka Bridge, built in 1866 and rebuilt in 2019, is the largest single-arch stone bridge in the Balkans and the third largest in Europe. Don’t miss a stop at the Klifki Waterfall, with its turquoise, refreshing waters—a landscape straight out of a fairytale.
Lunch at the Renowned Boutzas Tavern in Pramanta
Behind St. Paraskevi church, on the village square, the Boutzas family tavern has been a culinary landmark since 1957, serving exceptional meats sourced from their own butcher shop: local cuts, lamb kleftiko, stewed mutton, kokoretsi, grilled mutton, lamb chops, galotyri cheese, and classic pies.
Exploring and Dining in Kalarrytes Village
Built into a sheer rockface lies the Holy Monastery of Kipina, on the way to Kalarrytes village.
Founded in 1212 and set in gardens tended by its monks, the monastery flourished in the 18th century, known for its social role.
In 1817, after a refusal by Syrrako locals to send a girl to Ali Pasha’s harem, the monastery was transferred to Kalarrytes, whose location and defenses helped it survive raids.
Access is via a rocky path and a small wooden drawbridge that monks once lifted to protect against invaders.
After wandering Kalarrytes’ cobblestone alleys, visitors gather on the main square for coffee, drinks, food, and conversation.
Elderly locals still speak the Vlach dialect and proudly pass it to younger generations.
Next to the square sits the private Anghela Ch. Golfanopoulou folklore collection, housed in the old Kostadimas mansion and filled with regional treasures, where retired teacher Katerina Mousafiri–Golfanopoulou welcomes guests.
The tour ends with a meal at “O Baros” grill house on the main square, featuring traditional pies, local cheeses, oven-baked giant beans, and handmade desserts.
Exploring Elliniko Village—An Open-Air Art Museum
Visit the Theodoros Papagiannis Museum of Contemporary Art and Tzouka Monastery
The entire route, from Elliniko’s entrance up the hill to Tzouka Monastery, is adorned with works by sculptor Theodoros Papagiannis, blending tradition, memory, and art.
The Museum of Contemporary Art, founded in 2009 in the village’s old school by master builders with funds from benefactor Nikolaos Mantelopoulos, hosts works by Papagiannis among the few Greek artists working with a wide array of materials, often recycled or salvaged. His pieces reflect people, traditional trades, and the region’s intellectual spirit—all shaped by his deep personal history.
Continuing northeast 3 km from the museum, the impressive Tzouka Monastery sits at 760 meters, a superbly preserved complex set high atop a nearly vertical rock, gazing across the Arachos Gorge.
Tradition says Emperor Isaac II Angelos founded it in 1190; destroyed in 1736, it was rebuilt in 1779. Legend holds that a miraculous icon of the Virgin repeatedly moved itself to the hill, indicating the site for the monastery.
“Tsiouka Analta” in Vlach means “high peak,” echoing its lofty setting. Behind the monastery, visitors can admire the spectacular Arachos Gorge, famed for its natural beauty.
Dining at “O Ntouskos” Tavern in Elliniko
A few steps from the Papagiannis Museum, on a raised square beneath towering plane trees, “O Ntouskos” tavern serves authentic traditional fare—local meats, galotyri cheese, bougiourdi, regional pies, and delicious sweets, all in a warm and inviting setting overlooking the stunning local landscape.
